The Grandmothers Reviving Albanian Cuisine
The Grandmothers Reviving Albanian Cuisine
Across Albania, grandmother-chefs are putting heirloom recipes back at the center of daily life. On national TV, 76-year-old Tefta Pajenga demonstrates classics like japrakë—vine leaves filled with rice and herbs—reminding viewers that many beloved dishes reflect centuries of exchange (the name comes from Turkish), while the ingredients remain proudly local: dill, peppers, mint.
Albania’s table has always been a crossroads. Romans embedded grapes and olives into the landscape. Ottoman routes carried dishes like Arnavut ciğeri (Albanian liver) eastward, while sweets and staples such as sutlijaš (rice pudding) moved the other way. From the northern Balkans came spreads like ajvar. Alongside these travelers are uniquely Albanian foods: mishavinë, a pungent alpine cheese aged inside animal fat; flia, a layered pancake brushed with cream; and byrek me mish, a paprika-laced meat pie.
Knowledge largely flowed grandmother-to-grandchild. In the northern Alps, Gjyste Bici learned techniques during winters that sealed villages off for months. She later took those methods to television (“The Albanian Sunday,” from 2007) and into print with Unique Cuisine of the Albanian Highlands, preserving preparations she says stretch back millennia. Social media has widened her audience—young cooks now DM for guidance or follow her step-by-steps on TikTok.
In short, thanks to these grandmothers—and the chefs and farmers who’ve joined them—Albanian cuisine isn’t just being remembered; it’s being re-learned, cooked, and shared, from home kitchens to TV studios to thoughtful farm restaurants.
